Day 1 of my pilgrimage to Thailand, Nepal, India, Sikkim and Bhutan begins with a departure from Salt Lake City to Los Angeles with a 13 ½ hour flight to Incheon (Seoul), Korea. This pilgrimage was planned and organized by Maggy Kossowski, the personal assistant, secretary and translator for the late Lopon Chechoo (Tsechu) Rinpoche; thus, it is truly an honor that Maggy will be our guide on this journey. We will be attending his funeral ceremonies in Kathmandu, Nepal on November 23-24. Rinpoche was one of the few great meditation masters to receive a profound and extensive education in old Tibet. He had many teachers from the Kagyu, Nyingma, Sayka and Gelug Buddhist lineages, including The 16th Gyalwa Karmapa, Rangjung Rigpe Dorje.
What is a pilgrimage? A pilgrimage is visiting places that are sacred to a particular Buddha or places that have been blessed with the presence of great yogis and sages. When a site is sacred for both of those reasons, it is a powerful source of inspiration for spiritual practice and thus, has attracted great yogis and sages for meditation and deep inner spiritual realization that leads to liberation and enlightenment. It is said that as much spiritual progress can be made in one month in a sacred site that would take a year elsewhere; i.e. quite an impact is felt being in a cave where a great yogi, such as Milarepa, meditated for 20 years. Many pilgrims are also known to do prostrations the entire journey, which has a humbling and purifying effect.
We will journey for the next two weeks to many of the places held dear and powerful to Lopon Tsechu Rinpoche, including Bhutan where he was born in 1918. Unfortunately, I never met Rinpoche but I have seen pictures of him, often with Lama Ole Nydahl. I perceive there was (and still is, of course) an incredible bond of love between the two of them. Lopon Tsechu was Ole’s teacher before Ole and Hannah (Ole’s wife) went into retreat with The 16th Gyalwa Karmapa where they became the Karmapa’s first Western students. Lama Ole Nydahl is my living example of human potential. I had never heard of him until a few years ago when I was in a Wild Oats grocery store in Laguna Beach, California. I was interested in eastern philosophy so I noticed a “Buddhism Today” magazine. I picked it up and opened it exactly to the page where there was a picture of Lama Ole and an ad about his teaching the following week in Los Angeles. Is that a coincidence? I always say that whenever you think something is a coincidence, it’s not. I attended the teachings—on the edge of my seat all night—and Ole has been my teacher ever since. Yes, I do have other teachers. We all have many teachers, but there are some who change our lives forever---and there’s no turning back.
I was aware that Lopon Tsechu Rinpoche was considered one of the key figures for the cohesion of the different Buddhist schools in Nepal and the entire Himalayan region. He took care of many monasteries and nunneries that serve the indigenous Buddhist population of Sherpas, Tamangs, Gurung, Newar, Tsumbas, Tibetans and Bhutanese. He worked for the development of eighteen mostly isolated regions of Nepal, located in remote areas in the Himalayas. He gave relentless support for the restoration of old stupas, meditation places, monasteries, and built many “Om Mani Peme Hung” (“oh, thy jewel in the heart of the lotus”) prayer wheels. He traveled around the world giving teachings and initiations and built a Kalachakra Stupa in Spain and two other stupas in Germany. He “walked the talk” of loving kindness and compassion, selflessly working to benefit others. He taught by the example that he set, which is the most effective way to teach.
Thus, I will never forget the day I read a letter from Lama Ole Nydahl, dated June 11, 2003. I will highlight some of his comments in order that you will gain some insight into the greatness of Lopon Chechoo Rinpoche. It read: “As you will know already, a majestic oak has fallen in our forest. One of the last true spiritual giants just died. At 07:14 Central European time on 10th June ’03 Lopon Chechoo Rinpoche could take nothing more from his 85 years old body. An intimate helper and guide to our work, Hannah’s and my teacher for a full 36 years and a great inspiration to countless beings went to the Buddha-fields from the International hospital in Bangkok. People’s lives are their most complete teachings, and Lopon Chechoo Rinpoche shows us mind’s power, also through some most amazing figures. Here are the conditions under which he accomplished his latest successes for the benefit of all: Already 4 years ago, when he first came to the hospital, his doctors found his heart to function at 20 percent. One needs 60 percent to live and they had no words. While he traveled the world to our centres and his activity only rose, brought skillfully into our world by his confidante Maggy, the percentage decreased to 12 and even blessing and will-power cannot explain what kept him here. Lucidly aware even when too weak to speak or move, during short gusts of energy he still directed every detail of his projects and joined the great 16th Karmapa as a landmark of modern yogihood: Allowing nothing to stop his vision and accepting no hindrance to his purpose, he made us all victors and his partners in awakening beings’ finest potential. May we bring him joy! As he gave everything in his way, let us do the same in ours.”
We could certainly use more people like Lopon Tsechu Rinpoche in our lives.
Day 2 - Bangkok, Thailand
It is 4:00 am in Bangkok, Thailand. Although I made a reservation for a "junior rack" room, I am in a two bedroom suite that is bigger than my condominium in Salt Lake City. I brought winter clothes, and it is tropical here--very, very warm, which reminds me of Florida. This is as funny as when a hundred weary travelers were standing at the luggage claim after our flight--you know how we stand and stand and watch and watch for the luggage to start arriving. Finally, a skateboard came down the schute. Nothing else--just a skateboard, all by his lonesome. Why did that strike me so funny?
There are beautiful temples and palaces here. A woman sitting next to me on the plane from Cambodia gave me some of the history of those temples, telling me that they are really Cambodian but Thailand took over that part of Cambodia after civil war. Cambodia keeps getting smaller and smaller, she says. She asked me if I was a handicap worker. She thought I was going to Cambodia to help children who have been handicapped because of the land mines. It touched me because I was very aware of Princess Diana's work with land mines. This Cambodian woman told me that before they started removing the land mines, there were 100 casualties a day in Cambodia, and many of them were children.
I was so impressed that Korean Air served green tea throughout the flight. But then, when we landed at the airport, I saw green tea everything: green tea muffins, green tea facial packs, green tea in bottles next to bottled water; so, green tea must be to Asia what hamburgers are to Westerners. The Incheon (Seoul) airport is incredible, and one could spend a day shopping there. On the flight from LA to Seoul, I sat next to an older couple from Hollywood who have traveled the world. What interesting stories. Pat warned me about selecting Korean food on the flight. Lunch was a dish with some vegetables, which required that you add a bowl of rice and a TUBE of red pepper paste before stirring. I only added half of the tube of red pepper paste, and it was so hot that I could barely eat it. To think that I had told her that I could handle it because I like Mexican food.
Day 3 - Bangkok, Thailand
I was awake before my 7:30 am wake-up call and had breakfast downstairs in the wonderful Pink Lotus restaurant. There was a buffet of endless food, which included a large bowl of cayenne red pepper (it really is a food staple here). I noticed a restaurant employee bowing to a statue in the waiting area only to discover that it wasn’t Buddha but rather, King Rama V. There were offerings left for him: fresh pink roses, water, hot cocoa, a plate of cigars and a few other items that I couldn't identify. Since a 6 hour tour had been booked for me with a man who is native to Thailand (Paul) but English-speaking, I immediately asked him about King Rama. I listened about the Rama legacy throughout the day, and the more I listened, the more intrigued I became. I also had exchanged currency so that I would have the entire collection of bhat but discovered that the present King Rama IX is on every single coin and bill. With every new King, new currency is produced with the new King’s picture.
The movie, “The King and I”, is about King Rama V, and I am eager to see it again because it has been years. There are statues of King Rama V throughout Bangkok. He is revered for many reasons, including the fact that he abolished slavery here in Thailand. The current King Rama IX has been the King for nearly 60 years, following the assassination of his brother, King Rama VIII, who was only about 20 years of age, at the Grand Palace. They were both born in Boston because their father (who was never King) became a Medical Doctor there, and their mother became a nurse. As a result, they returned to Thailand to bring that education here, which included starting a hospital. The current King Rama IX is very much loved in Thailand, and the people pray every morning for him. He does not live at the Grand Palace now because his brother was assassinated there; however, an assassin did make an attempt about 20 years ago but was shot by the Queen.
The Grand Palace complex is breathtakingly beautiful. It houses the renowned Temple of the Emerald Buddha, and covers an area of 218,000 square metres and is surrounded by four walls, 1900 meters in length. After King Rama I’s ascension to the throne in 1782 the palace was built. Prior to this, the royal palace and center of administration had been located in Thronburi, on the west side of the Chao Phraya River. This capital was replaced on the other side of the river that is now Bangkok. By his royal command, a new palace was built to duplicate the one in Thronburi (apparently, the Burmaese burned it to the ground). The Royal Monastery of the Emerald Buddha is one of the most venerated sites in Thailand where people convene to pay respect to the Lord Buddha and his teachings. It is enshrined on a golden traditional Thai-style throne made of gilded-carved wood, known as a Busakok, in the ordination hall of the royal monastery. The sacred image is clad with one of the three seasonal costumes of Thailand (summer, rainy season, and winter). The costumes are changed three times a year in a ceremony presided over by His Majesty the King. There is a long and fascinating history about the Emerald Buddha, which had actually been carved from a block of green jade and later covered with plaster. When it was discovered by an abbot in 1434 in a stupa in Chiang Rai, he noticed that the plaster on the nose had flaked off, revealing the green stone underneath that he thought was emerald.
Bangkok has to be the largest and most congested city I have ever seen; thus, I am glad that I chose to stay at a hotel away from the city and near the airport. I would never rent a car here because they drive on the wrong side of the road, and the driver’s side is on the right side of the car instead of the left. I repeatedly got in the driver’s seat, and had to switch. However, the people are so wonderful. Paul told me, “The Thai people smile all the time. That is my culture.” They also work very hard. I saw many women pushing carts today, and they cook on the street. Although I was warned to stay away from street food, I couldn’t refuse Paul buying lunch for us-- “bot-me"--- from an older woman. Paul was a wonderful guide, and occasionally put up and held his umbrella over my head to provide some shade from the very warm sun on this very humid day. He also had a great deal of patience with me as I learned how to use my new digital camera. We saw numerous temples (there are hundreds of them in Bangkok), and the large gold standing Buddha. Since 90% of the people are Buddhist here, it is common to see people meditating, burning incense and making offerings.
I am ending the day following a 3 ½ hour Thai massage, which is quite an art. Apparently, most Americans find Thai massage to be quite painful. Yes, the women work hard here. I was only charged $32.00 so she appreciated the tip that I gave her. She didn’t expect it either, because she had left and gone to the back room. The people keep smiling and bowing in gassho. Earlier, I ran into one of the maids in the hallway. She had a mask over her face but removed it when she saw me so she could smile and bow in gassho, hands folded in front of the heart. The message--“the divine in me greets the divine in you”--sparks a bond that penetrates the heart—a feeling that will be my memory of Thailand.
Day 4 - Kathmandu, Nepal
Flying into Kathmandu was amazing because as I looked out both sides of the windows on the plane, I could see no end to the mountains, and they seemed within my grasp. A representative of the hotel was waiting to transfer me. I’ve been to Mexico and to Russia but yet I cannot compare the poverty to Kathmandu, probably because the population is so much greater here, and thus, the needs of the people are greater. But, my Western definition of poverty is fleeting by the minute because there is another kind of wealth here. The city is so much larger than I expected, and it is more heavily populated than I expected. The ride to my hotel on bumpy, swerving dirt roads through Thamel where there are endless open shops and people, included many short stops and horn honking at cars, animals and people who were within inches of the car. I asked my driver if he has ever hit someone, and he replied, “Sometimes.” Words cannot express the scenes; thus, I will rely on my photographs. Good photography arouses emotion so I expect that my best photography ever will be the pictures that I shoot tomorrow. I look forward to being with and among the people of Kathmandu.
Nepal is bordered by Tibet to the north and by India to the south, east and west and is the most accessible region of the central Himalayas with a population of 23.1 million. It spans only a mere hundred kilometers from north to south and is home to 101 ethnic groups and 92 spoken languages. Wow—no “group think phenomenon” that is a problem in the West. Because of its geographical position, the Kathmandu valley remains an important trading center, facilitating the circulation of goods and ideas—not only in the fertile basin but in the other valleys and the ‘thirteen passes’ leading to Tibetan Central Asia. The Chinese invasion of Tibet from 1950 caused an influx of Tibetans into Nepal, and temples and monasteries have sprung up in sacred places such as Swayambhu and Bodnath. However, the Indo-Nepalas are Hindu and remain the dominant group, forming about 45 per cent of the population of Nepal, located in the central part of Nepal from west to east. The jewels of Nepal are the hill of Swayambhu, the great shrines of Bodhnath and Chabahi and the huge sacred complex of Pashupati. There are hundreds of temples, sanctuaries and monasteries. However, Nepal is well known for its trekking “paradise”, mountaineering, river rafting, kayaking and canyoning, national parks and wildlife reserves.
The Vajra Hotel, where we are staying, is a rare find, located across the Bishnumati River from Kathmandu. It is enchantingly mystical and special beyond words. It is set among lush gardens and situated to provide phenomenal views of the Himalayas and hilltop Swayambunath Stupa from its rooftop terrace. The hotel reflects Nepali culture; its brick buildings exhibit the traditional architecture of Kathmandu and include fine traditional woodcarving and paintings by local artists. The Vajra is also a cultural center, home to an art gallery, a theatre, and a library filled with amazing books, managed by a white-bearded, swami. Upon arriving today, I immediately took pictures from the rooftop and then sat out on the lower patio and had a cup of the famous Darjeeling tea that I have heard about—it was my greatest Zen moment ever. I heard so many different birds that it surpassed my collection of nature CD’s.
Over the years I have purchased Tibetan Art in California from Jim Aplington who, with his business partner, owns Lotus Gallery in Kathmandu. Jim has traveled to California 6 months of every year; thus, I was pleasantly surprised a few weeks ago to discover that Jim lives here at the Vajra. I didn’t have to look for him, either, because I ran into him at the front desk. (Jim got started in the art business after he visited an orphanage near the border of Tibet and decided to sell some Tibetan art as a fund raiser for the orphanage.) We had a visit over a cup of lemon ginger tea, and he filled his bag with toothbrushes that I brought, donated by my dentist in Salt Lake City, Dr. Richard Parkin. Jim leaves tomorrow for some remote areas near Mt. Everest, and he will be taking the toothbrushes to people who literally do not have them. For more information about Lotus Gallery, visit Jim’s website at www.lotusgallerynepal.com
I received a note as I was falling asleep that reads, “Hello Carol and Friends, Welcome to Kathmandu. Tomorrow morning at 5:30 we meet at the Swayambu Stupa.” I’ve never been a morning person---but I certainly am now since it is quite a hike to the Stupa, so I suspect that we'll be departing here in the morning by 4:30 am.
Day 5 - Kathmandu, Nepal
At 4:15 am I heard people's voices in the hall and opened my door. A group was gathering to leave for Swayambunath Stupa so I simply threw on my clothes but missed that group along with Britta, from Germany, who attempted to find them but got lost. The divine structure of a stupa transcends architecture and archaeology and is the living embodiment of Buddhist teaching--a harmonizing of the physical with the spiritual. Alaine, a Venezuelan from Mexico City, who has been in charge of the stupa project in Mexico City for the past couple of years (dedication is in March 2006), showed up in the lobby and said he knew the way so I walked up with him--feeling safe because it was dark outside--or should I say "trekked" up what seemed like a mile of steep steps (I couldn't keep up with him). The steps here are very steep, comparable to the steps in Russia. You quickly get used to the fact that there are no elevators or escalators in this part of the world, and preparing for a marathon would have best prepared me for all of the climbing we did through the day visiting sacred sites. Two women who have worked with Alaine on the stupa project in Mexico City, Ana and Bibi, will join us later in Bhutan, obviously having a deep appreciation for stupas.
The Swayambunath Stupa is sacred to Buddhists because it was a self-arising phenomenon that occurred prior to this kalpa (eon of time) with the Buddha of this kalpa, Buddha Shakyamuni. There were three Buddhas in three kalpas prior to the Buddha Shakyamuni, who paradoxically was born in Nepal although Nepal is now primarily Hindu. The Buddha's teachings spread throughout Asia but only arrived in the Himalayas after over one thousand years. The reason why those teachings were so preserved in the Himalayas is that they were protected from invasion; thus, the original teachings (sutras) were never corrupted or revised as we sadly see in so many religious traditions. The Stupa arose as a crystal from a lotus in a lake, and the blessing from just looking at it is so powerful that it will purify negative karma and plant a seed for dharma that will blossom one day. The grounds are authentically beautiful and sacred with much to see and rows and rows of prayer wheels that contain inside of them thousands of prayers written on paper. People spin them as they walk by, sending those prayers to the world. It has been quite thrilling for me to turn prayer wheels that I have only seen in pictures. There are monkeys everywhere--and a long story behind those monkeys--going back to the historical Buddha, the Buddha Shakyamuni.
At 5:30 am in the gompa, we went to a morning puja (ceremony) that was being done at the request of Maggy. (For 49 days the monks will say mantras and prayers for a friend of Maggy's.) I had been exposed to traditional rituals primarily through Lama Thupton at Urgyen Samten Ling in Salt Lake City; however, I had never seen young monks with a bucket of water cleaning off the practice benches after they ate, which wasn't a variety of food offerings that I have seen at pujas but rather, a small bowl of some type of porridge. We were invited to sit along the sides of the room, and it was wonderful. It was where I first met Maggy, and if no one would have told me if was her, I simply would have known by her radiance. She arrived after we were sitting and immediately started talking to one of the monks. I was happy to see Ole's students prostrating and seeming to know exactly what to do. I took some wonderful pictures, including one of a young monk who seemed to know that my camera was at the back of his head, so he turned around and looked at me so that I could get his face in the picture. It seemed magical. Afterwards, we went to another building on site, the Dongak Chhyoling Old Monastery, and had tea and biscuits. Maggy talked to us about the Stupa and other historical facts. She is clearly a scholar, speaks at a rapid pace and speaks seven different languages. She is a wonderful teacher. She told us that the information she gives to us on this pilgrimage is not from a book but from Lopon Tsechu Rinpoche and thus, a transmission from him. She then told us that this very location is where Western Buddhism began because it was where Lama Ole Nydahl and his wife, Hannah first met the 16th Karmapa. Ole refers to the event in his book, The Way Things Are. She pointed to the rooftop of a building and told us that it was the location of the well known picture of Ole and Hannah meditating. Thus, karmic conditions came together at this Stupa--a magical moment, the event that precipitated the Karmapa selecting Ole and Hannah to be his first Western students, thus, bringing Buddhism to the west and creating a bridge between the east and the west that was even desired by Jesus.
An important fact is that the Stupa would not be standing here as it is if it were not for Lopon Tsechu Rinpoche's uncle, Rinpoche Lama Sherab Dorje, who spent 12 years restoring it. We will never know the depth, breadth and many layers of Lopon Tsechu Rinpoche's work. Maggy claims that every moment with him was magical, and she never regretted a day of the 15 years she spent with him, even though she has a family and two children. She told some personal and miraculous stories, such as when he performed a puja to remove obstacles because it was her obstacle year (Tibetan medical-astronomy-astrology). I am so glad that I understood what she was referring to because I have acquired an extensive knowledge about Tibetan medical-astronomy-astrology as a result of my friendship with Jhampa Kalsang (Ph.D. or rTsisrampa), who was trained at the Tibetan Medical Institute of His Holiness the Dalai Lama in Dharmasala and where he worked for ten years. Jhampa then wrote the book Tibetan Astro Science. Tibetan astrololgy has the edge on other astrological systems because it recognizes two esoteric planets that are not recognized in other systems--Kedu and Rahus--which is also why it is called "in-depth" astrology--very precise, very helpful and provides valuable information.
Lopon Tsechu Rinpoche never learned English; thus, Maggy was a bridge for him to the western world, which was so important in the global work that he was doing. He had two phones in his room that we visited, which has been left undisturbed. (It is in this room that Maggy still feels closest to him where she sat on a carpet on the floor next to his bed where he not only slept but received people day after day, beginning at 5:30 am in the morning.) One phone was a "hot line" for Kings, Queens and other dignitaries around the world, but he was often seen with a phone at each ear. It is a tribute to Lopon Tsechu Rinpoche that he would choose a woman to help him in his work because a Western female perspective is important for one who was raised as a monk in the East. I could always tell when I was reviewing a new textbook for a publishing company if it was written only by a man, and I would always recommend that a female author be added to eliminate male bias. But, that is another story that developed from my experiences in helping to develop the Women's Studies program at UNLV.
We then hiked up to Lopon Tsechu's Monastery. The lamas at this monastery are very well trained because Lopon Tsechu Rinpoche sent several of them to Bhutan for 6 years of retreat and 7 years of study. We climbed stairs to see Rinpoche's Stupa that was built for him. It is breathtaking--gold with exquisite ornamentation and many precious stones. Up until he died, he had been so active and alive that the monks at his monastery simply did not know what to do when they saw that he had died so his body remained untouched. He was so much more than their teacher--he was like their father. Although it was in July during the monsoon period and the hottest time of the year, his body did not decompose or decay. It simply dried and remained appearing as he was when he was alive; thus, it was decided not to cremate Rinpoche's body but rather, place it standing, inside the stupa. Maggy reminded us that he was so unlike the ornamentation of the Stupa. For example, he would mention that his car was 35 years old, and he bought it second hand. Then, we had breakfast in the courtyard of the monastery, which included omelets and rice. Maggy was funny when she announced, "This isn't dharma. This is about rice. This rice can only be found here and in Bhutan. It is the best rice in the world, and is very nutritious." I asked the head abbot, Lama No No (sp) if I could take pictures of the children (monks) who were practicing in the gompa. He invited me to do so. The children smiled and seemed to enjoy the fact that I was taking their pictures. I noticed that the back wall was a full mural of the life of Milarepa--the same mural that Lopon Tsechu Rinpoche saw in Bhutan as a child and remembered; thus, shortly before his death, he had the mural replicated at this monastery in Kathmandu. Rinpoche actually spent 76 years of his life in Nepal, and only ten years of his life in Bhutan.
The afternoon was spent taking a bus to Pharping Ganesh about an hour from Kathmandu. We saw Saraswati Temple and the cave where Guru Rinpoche, also known as Padmasambhava, realized Mahamudra; it was very auspicious that we would visit it on the 10th day of the lunar month, which was also his birthday. We saw another site where an image of Green Tara appeared on a stone as a self-arising phenomenon. Even Lopon Tsechu Rinpoche verified that this image was not painted. I also took pictures of the deeply imbedded handprints that Guru Rinpoche left on and in the cave where he meditated. Monks were chanting inside the cave where candles were lit in offering; thus, for candles to be burning in such a small space, it was extremely hot. One of the monks at the monastery mentioned that Lopon Tsechu Rinpoche had spent a month at the cave once in retreat, and he went along in order to cook for Rinpoche. Think about what an adventure and priviledge that would be. I took unbelievable pictures of lit butter lamps and of people in the village. Prayer flags flanked the steps up to the cave, and the trees and hilltop were also covered with prayer flags.
It is so amusing to me when I tell Europeans that I am from Utah. One Norwegian man, Svein, (FYI, he is not from Sweden) said, "Oh, that's where the Quakers are." (Svein was so kind; I lost track of how many times he helped me carry a heavy package or my computer suitcase.) Another person said, "Yes, Utah is next to Canada." If I mention the Olympics, I usually hear, "I don't follow the Olympics." Our group now consists of 35 people from 4 continents and 14 different countries. Here we are, as best as I can document:
Alaine de Mattois-Mexico City, Mexico
Alexandra Kondratieve-
Ana-Mexico
Andre Steinauer-Bern, Switzerland
Andreas Andersons-
Andriy Toloshnyy-
Anita Hodula-Debrecen, Hungary
Bernd Schuler-Munich, Germany
Bibi-Mexico
Birte Christiansen-Lyngby, Denmark
Britta Kaufman-Hanover, Germany
Carol A. Wilson-Salt Lake City, UT, U.S.A.
Christine Brenner-Munich, Germany
David Spitzer-San Francisco, CA, U.S.A.
Dina-El Salvador, San Salvador
Elka Ilieva-Sofia, Bulgaria
Gabor Tuma-Hungary (lives in Moscow)
Hans Bertil Voll-Oslo, Norway
Jenia Grigorieva-
Kirsten Mari Jensen-Copenhagen, Denmark
Lis Ernlund Nielsen-Denmark Fyn, Bogense, Aebeloegade 9
Luisa Lara Montenegro-Spain
Marion Lorenzen-Nivaa, Denmark
Martina Schneider-Munich, Germany
Michael B. Krogh-Copenhagen, Denmark
Mikkel Uth Ovesen - Copenhagen, Denmark
Mirjam Hadjeri-Munich, Germany
Nathalie Matter-Bern, Switzerland
Niels Kragelund and Fiona Andersen-Ry, Denmark
Nicolaj-Sofia, Bulgaria
Nils Wenner-Sweden
Preben Holdt-Holbeak, Denmark
Sasha Stekolenko-
Sercey Tartyshnikov-
Sveinove-Oslo, Norway
Tanya Vanto-Turku, Finland
Tibor Suslecz-Veszprem, Hungary
Tomorrow morning we depart via airplane to Bhadapur, India where we will then travel for about 6 hours via buses to Kalimpong, India.
Day 6 - To Kalimpong, India
This morning began with an early morning transfer to the Kathmandu airport for a quick, 45 minute flight to Bhadapur. The Kathmandu airport is a rather small, red brick facility, and at first it reminded me of a prison because of the chain link fencing. There are no signs or written information about scheduled flights so one has to rely on verbal announcements that really are not discernible; fortunately, Maggy asked a German woman, Britta, to be in charge of our group because we had to split up and fly on two planes (21 passenger plane). A few of the Europeans told me that if you want someone to be in charge and get things organized, find a German. There was one young man who was having slight anxiety attacks, and while we were riding the bus to board our plane, he counted 17 people, and really did think that we had left an 18th person behind. He and Britta had quite an exchange back and forth before it was determined that there were 18 pieces of baggage and 17 people and not the other way around. There is always the unexpected here; i.e. boarding the plane, a big monkey ran across the runway.
Once on board, it was thrilling to be flying into the Himalayas. We flew right past the summit of Mt. Everest, and the pilot allowed me to get into the cock pit. While the pilot leaned forward, I took pictures of Mt. Everest from his side window. The mountains are so majestic that they almost look painted. (I wasn't the group photographer on this trip, however; that job was quickly delegated to Bernd, a man who appeared to be a serious photographer, and yes, he is also from Germany.) When we finally landed at the Chandragadi Airport in Bhadapur, there were a couple of people who applauded--perhaps a little nervous about being on such a small plane. The Chandragadi Airport is just one little building, painted pale yellow. Young men wearing "PORTER" t-shirts carried our baggage to two buses where our baggage was loaded on top, then covered with a tarp and secured with rope. I am amazed at Maggy's attention to small but important detail. She made sure that there was an equal number of people on both buses--17--so that the buses could travel at the same speed. I sat in the front seat so the front window was similar to a screen where a movie played out as we traveled to Kakarwita to exit Nepal, and then a couple of more miles up the road we entered India at Ranigunj. While passing through immigration at these points, one needs to simply relax and wait during a laborious procedure where passport information is written into a book and we sign necessary paperwork. We spent at least a couple of hours undergoing this process, and then we began our travel through India. We passed several tea plantations, scattered with workers who were picking tea leaves. I must say that it was a thrill ride beyond any amusement park or Disneyland ride I have ever experienced; however, seat belts are rare. I cannot believe how much FUN it was--the kind of high-risk- taking adventure that my son, Colby, loves. The bus was constantly swerving while the driver honked the horn in order to warn animals, vehicles, people walking, and people riding bikes. I've gotten used to seeing animals everywhere. Cows are in the road, on the side of the road and even in people's front yards. (A significant number of the buildings are constructed of plywood.) Our driver had superior driving skills in order to maneuver this, and it is extremely hard work that requires complete alertmess and attentiveness not only because of the congestion on the roads but because the roads have many holes. Although I have had advanced driving training (Nascar), I do not believe that I could drive in India on these roads for five minutes. In our climb to Kalimpong, there were times when our driver had the bus in first gear, and it honestly sounded as though the engine was going to blow. I would never have the courage to push an engine like that.
When we arrived in Kalimpong at the Silver Oaks Hotel, we were greeted by porters who were dressed in white British uniform attire, and they placed a yellow kata around our necks. It was a marvelous welcome, which included wine in the large hotel lobby area. The hotel is decorated in a very quaint Victorian style with raised panel oak throughout, and the gardens surrounding the hotel have wonderful gardens with spectacular views of the mountains. We had a late dinner of Chinese food because Maggy would not allow us to eat on the road in India in fear that we might get sick. The most important thing, however, is that one must drink bottled water.
Day 7 - Kalimpong, India
Kalimpong is a small hill station between Siliguri and Gangtok, India in the northern country of India and the State of West Bengal, 1250 m above sea level. West Bengal is in the eastern part of India, surrounded by Sikkim and the Himalayas and the countries of Nepal and Bhutan on the north. Bihar is west, Bangladesh east, and the Bay of Bengal is south. Mother Teresa’s city of Calcutta lies in the southern region of West Bengal. Inititally, the headquarters of a Bhutanese Governor, the word ‘Kalim’ means King’s Minister and ‘pong’ means stronghold; thus, the stronghold of the King’s Minister. Until the 18th century, Kalimpong was part of the Kingdom of Sikkim and ruled by a Sikkimese rulers but then taken over by the Bhutanese. In the 1900’s the British acquired Kamlipong and merged into the present Indian state of West Bengal. Kalimpong is known for its quiet and peaceful atmosphere and the panoramic views of the Himalayas, particularly Mt. Kanchenjunga. The road to Kalimpong is one of the most scenic routes in the nation, with the swift flowing Teesta river running by the side of the road. I felt as though I was submerged in a lush, subtropical forest, and it was so mystical that I expected to see winged fairies among the trees. Kalimpong produces 80% of India’s gladioli and is famous for its orchids and nurseries; thus, flowers are exported to many cities in northern India. It is also known for its traditional handicrafts. Kalimpong recognizes five languages: Gorkha, Nepali, Hindi, Bengali and English. How impressive--and a reminder that the United States needs to keep moving towards multi-lingualism, which is so beneficial to a child’s academic and social development.
There are monasteries and churches spread across the town. Gompas include the Tharpa Choeling Gompa, which belongs to the Yellow Hat (Gelugpa) sect of Tibetan Buddhism and is a 40 minute walk from town. Lower down the hill is the Tongsa Gompa, or Bhutanese Monastery, which is the oldest monastery in the area, dating back to 1692. Zong Dog Palri Fo-Brang Gompa was built in the mid-70’s at Durpin Dara Hill and was consecrated by the Dalai Lama. The wall paintings in the prayer room and a rare three-dimensional mandala are breathtaking. The mountain views are spectacular from Durpin Dara Hill. Shri Mangal Dham is one of the most splendid temples in India--a memorial that was built in 1993 and sprawls over an area of two acres.
More importantly, we traveled to Kalimpong by road to the home of His Holiness the 17th Gyalwa Karmapa, Trinlay Thaye Dorje, an enlightened being and the spiritual head of the Karma Kagyu Tibetan Buddhism lineage. He was born in Tibet in 1983, the first son of the 3rd Mipam Rinpoche, a great Nyingma Lama, and Dechen Wangmo, the daughter of a noble family descending from King Gesar of Ling. Kalimpong is an ideal location for him because it is "tucked away", and he can study without a lot of distraction. He holds the teachings of the transmission of the Kagyu lineage, which originated with the Buddha and have been preserved in a pure and authentic form through transmission from teacher to student. He was found and recognized as a child by His Holiness Kunzig Shamar Rinpoche, second to the Karmapa in the Karma Kagyu lineage. The Karmapa was the first incarnate lama (tulku) in Tibet even before the Dalai Lamas, which most people do not realize. I first met His Holiness the 17th Gyalwa Karmapa in Buena Park, California on his first visit to the United States nearly three years ago. I received teachings, initiations/transmissions from him over a period of three days and was spellbound, particularly when the translator was struggling for an extended period of time with an English translation from Tibetan. Finally, the Karmapa intervened and gave an eloquent translation in perfect English. Because I have taught hundreds of 21 year old boys as a university professor, and also raised a son and thus, shared much time with his many teammates during soccer practices, games, and tournaments, I realized that this 21 year old, Trinlay Thaye Dorje, was not like any 21 year old I had ever met. He was beyond extraordinary and beyond any words that I could express; thus, I looked so forward to meeting him again.
Thus, we were all very excited this morning as we gathered outside of the hotel waiting for taxis to take us to the Karmapa’s home. It was Dina’s 73rd birthday today so we sang “Happy Birthday” to her, and she said it was the best birthday she has ever had in her life. Although Dina had physical limitations, had to use a cane to walk, and often had to remain behind because she could not keep up with the rest of us, her devotion was very touching and a lesson for all of us because she never complained but rather, glowed with a joy that could be felt by everyone. She was an excellent example of how we can handle any situation with joy, regardless of inconvenience, pain and discomfort. (She actually reminded me of my dear maternal grandmother, Idy.) Dina met Lama Ole about 35 years ago in Kathmandu “when he was a hippy”, and she started a Diamondway Buddhist Center in El Salvador shortly thereafter. I wish that I was Spanish speaking so I could have communicated more with her and three other wonderful Spanish ladies (a mother and two daughters), who, unfortunately, had their luggage lost--never to be found. Don't we sometimes get lessons in impermanence at the most inopportune times?
As we approached the Karmapa’s home, walking up a path, I was struck by the spectacular view and flowers, particularly roses, in the yard. We were greeted by two German shepherd dogs that came dashing out the front door but I must say that they were the happiest dogs I've ever seen. Then we sat in a reception hall. One of the Karmapa’s assistants asked us to place personal items that we wanted blessed by the Karmapa on trays. Because we had stopped at a couple of wonderful gift shops, we had bags of items; in fact, Maggy made the comment that we had "bought out Kalimpong." He then gave each one of us a kata to wrap our gifts in to present to the Karmapa. I brought the Karmapa a book from Utah, UTAH ON MY MIND. We climbed the stairs to the room where the Karmapa receives visitors, removed our shoes before entering, prostrated and then approached him individually, giving him our gifts and receiving a blessing from him as he gave the kata back to us by placing it around our neck. Another monk gave us a gold yellow ribbon blessing string to wear around our neck. The room was beautiful with a tall, glass case of exquisite statues in the corner. On the wall directly behind the Karmapa hung a thangka of Milarepa. We took pictures and then sat quietly. The Karmapa asked softly, “Do you have any questions about dharma?” We were so quiet that we could have heard a pin drop. After a minute of no response from us, he then asked, “Do you have any questions about traveling?” We all laughed. He has such a sense of humor. Since it was Sunday, he did not give a teaching but insightfully answered our many questions, including a couple of questions from me. He then arranged to meet with us again the next day. I was particularly drawn to an older man, Tsultrim Namgyal, because he radiated such a glow. When I asked, "Are you the 17th Karmapa's servant or teacher?", he replied with a huge smile, "I was for the 16th Karmapa!" I was thrilled when someone took a picture of the two of us together as we were departing. Rather than expound further on His Holiness the 17th Karmapa here, his website is located at www.karmapa.or www.karmapa.org.
Day 8 - Kalimpong, India
Today we again did some brief shopping before meeting with His Holiness the 17th Gyalwa Karmapa in order that he could bless those items. We arrived at his home a few minutes early and enjoyed the opportunity to sit in the front yard to meditate. Then we again entered the reception hall, placed our items on trays and proceeded up the stairway to meet with the Karmapa. We meditated together and then we asked questions and enjoyed discussing Buddadharma. There was an indescribable powerfield being in the Karmapa's presence, and that kind of feeling is never forgotten. Learning beyond the intellectual can be foreign for Westerners. We learn to memorize, categorize, classify and then move onto the next chapter but that is not how we learn spiritually. For example, Maggy has told us that the knowledge of stupas is so deep, vast and profound that learning about it intellectually is impossible. She has tried to prepare us for the many, many stupas we will see in Bhutan. It so happens that Lopon Tsechu Rinpoche built more stupas than any lama--18---and he died only four months before the stupa in Spain was dedicated.
The previous day, after our meeting with the Karmapa, some members of the group waited for taxis to visit a nearby stupa while others of us walked back to the hotel through Kalimpong. I was with Dave from San Francisco, the only other American in the group, and Preben, from Denmark when we decided to walk back to the hotel, which I enjoyed, because I was able to talk with people and take pictures of some children. Preben is a former pilot, and about 6'5" so try walking with him. I figured that one of his strides is equivalent to three of mine. He had quite the sense of humor; when I was wondering if we were getting lost, he said, “We have a new saying now—instead of "Follow that car", we say, "Follow that monk." And Dave--I believe he holds the New Guiness World Record for number of miles walked. Today, however, we dashed to Rumtek Monastery in order to see the monastery of the 16th Karmapa. That night I dreamed about specifically where the Karmapa's Black Crown is and was afterwards told that it has been missing.
Paradoxically, the Buddha Shakyamuni was born in Nepal, and Buddhism spread throughout Asia before it took refuge in the Land of Snows (the Himalayas), being passed along the secular paths of the nomad caravans where it then remained preserved. At times it is difficult for me to believe that here I am---in the Himalayas—a fortress in the heart of Asia. Geographers depict the slopes of the Himalayas, from their majestic peaks to the plains, as a giant patchwork. The rivers that rise below the high peaks have created a huge chequerboard, slicing through the mountain ranges that lie perpendicular to them to create discrete areas, inhabited by populations with disparate origins. I am reminded of a passage that a Tibetan bard was inspired to write when he visited the sacred sites of the Himalayas:
“When you live here, banish all concern for this life. Simply live here, and happiness, joy and contentment will come about.”
Nearly every where there is a sacred site; thus, there is a silent, unspoken inspiration—an unspeakable energy—beyond words—it is everywhere—coming up from the earth—the mountains--even in the impermanence of the wind.
The spirit of the people of the Buddhist Himalayas has an unparalleled cultural heritage---one of strength, tragedy, courage, nobility, faith, joy and spirit. Prayer flags can be seen everywhere, wherever the wind blows. Travelers have placed them in mountain passes, and villagers place them on the roofs of their houses and at the entrances to monasteries and villages. The prayers of compassion printed on the colored cloths are carried on the wind, spreading constructive and beneficent energy. There are also many prayer wheels, and as people turn them, they send prayers and wishes to the world. There are also stupas sitting in the open air, whose benefits are immeasureable for all the beings and non-beings who come in contact with them. I so often say that everything is reduced to energy, and there is power in the intention of our actions.
Sikkim and Some Miracles Along The Way
Because the Internet connection in this part of the world is difficult, I have not been able to post my journal entries every day as I had predicted, in addition to the fact that we are awakening at 4:30 am for our day's itinerary. However, I thought that I would quickly share with you some of the miracles that we have experienced along the way.
Our group is now 40 people because three men and a woman from Ukraine have joined us; they are filming. We were able to spend two days with His Holiness the 17th Gyalwa Karmapa in Kalimpong, India. After our last meeting with him on Sunday, we decided to travel by jeep to Rumtek Monastery in Sikkim, where the stupa is located of His Holiness the 16th Karmapa, Rangjung Rigpe Dorje. Maggy told us that we would be taking a big chance, as it was a three hour drive, and the monastery absolutely closes its doors at 5:00 pm. Then, we had to be careful to get out of Sikkim before the border closed at 8:00 pm (Sikkim is a restricted area and special permits are required). We decided to make the attempt, and although we arrived at Rumtek Monastery past 5:00, we were not only allowed in but as we finished visiting the stupa, one of the monks began placing meditation carpets on the wood floor in front of the stupa, inviting us to stay and meditate. It was truly one of the most special moments of my life.
Foreigners must obtain Inner Line Permit (ILP) to visit Sikkim, which can be obtained if you request permission when you apply for your Indian visa. The permit is for 15 days; however, two 15 day extensions are available upon request. Sikkim is small, 7,096 sq. kms. but there are many wonderful monasteries and sites to visit. Sikkim is also where His Holiness the 16th Karmapa, Rangjung Rigpe Dorje, chose to live after he had to flee Tibet with the Chinese invasion in 1959. Although I have heard about the Chinese invasion for many years, and I watched the movie Kundun, I am just now beginning to understand the magnitude of that unbelievable, historical event as I visit the places where Tibetans sought refuge. How kind and generous was Bhutan, Nepal, India and other countries to allow thousands of Tibetan people across its borders.
Rangjung Rigpe Dorjee was born in 1923 in Eastern Tibet in a noble family. At the age of six, he was recognized through a letter left by the preceding Gyalwa Karmapa, who predicted the name and family of the incarnation's parents; this prediction started with the first Tulku (reincarnation) Karma Pakshi. The Karma Kagyu was founded in the 12th century A.D. by Dusum Kyenpa, the first Gyalwa Karmapa. His Holiness, Dusum Kyenpa, was born in Tibet in 1110 A.D. His birth was prophesied by the Buddha Sakyamuni in the Samdhirajsutra. Dusum Kyenpa was known for his great accomplishments and was popularly called the Knower of Three Times. He founded the Tsruphu monastery in Tibet, which is the seat of all the Gyalwa Karmapas. Of course, the Chinese invasion not only threatened the spread of Buddhist dharma but also, the Kagyu lineage, which lay in the spiritual treasures and relics that belonged to the Kagyu sect. Thus, to preserve the spiritual wealth, His Holiness the 16th Gyalwa Karmapa began his journey out of Tibet, traveling through Bhutan towards India. It was then that His Majesty, the Chogyal, Tashi Namgyal, invited the 16th Gyalwa Karmapa and his followers to Sikkim. His Majesty also requested that the 16th Gyalwa Karmapa build monasteries in Sikkim, which was more than welcome because Sikkim was always considered a holy place by the Buddhists of Tibet. Because Lama Ole Nydahl was the first western student of the 16th Gyalwa Karmapa, I have always enjoyed hearing Ole talk about him. Ole says that the 16th Karmapa was truly all knowing--an enlightened being: "I've never seen anything like it." I especially enjoyed the story about when the Karmapa went into a bird shop (he loved birds and taught them to meditate) and started telling the owner what every single bird was thinking. The owner was so shaken that he gave the Karmapa every bird in the shop.
Thus, His Holiness the 16th Gyalwa Karmapa founded the Rumtek monastery on 74 acres of land as his sacred seat outside Tibet, constructed like the Tsruphu monastery, which was built in Tibet by the first Gyalwa Karmapa. As the seat of the Gyalwa Karmapa, the Rumtek monastery represents the accumulated spiritual energy of the Kagyu order. The 16th Karmapa resided at the Rumtek monastery and later shifted to the Dharma Chakra Center until, in 1981, he attained parinirvana. On Nov. 7, 1992, his ceremonial enshrinement occurred with the magnificent stupa installed in a new temple on the old building of the Karmae Shri Nalanda Institute at Rumtek. The Golden Stupa or the Lhabab Chorten is 13 ft. high and stands at the center of the temple. It contains the precious and holy remains of His Holiness the 16th Gyalwa Karmapa. The Chorten or the urn is gold plated and embedded with jewels, mostly ancient turquoise and corals. At the front hangs his dorje, which viewers can hold. The main image, which is the Vajradhara or Dorje Chang, is 5 feet tall, located at the center of the rear with all the other precious images of the eminent Gurus: the Tilopa, Naropa, Marpa (the founder of the sect) and Milarapa. The stupa also consists of the statues of the sixteen successive Gyalwa Karmapas together with the sacred images of His eminence, the 11th Tai Situ Rinpoche and Pema Wangchuk, the main Guru of the 16th Gyalwa Karmapa. I studied these statues with the intention that I would not forget their images, since photography is not allowed.
Of course, we were late getting to the Sikkim border, and a couple of people wondered how it would be sleeping in jeeps all night. But, we were allowed to cross as if time was not a variable. The next day there was a large group of white monkeys that crossed in front of our bus--a very rare event but an auspicious sign, which brings good luck and fortune.
Copyright c 2006 by Carol A. Wilson
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